IFSC Executive Board


MARCO SCOLARIS (ITA)

PRESIDENT

MANDATE 2021-2025

Born in Torino, Italy, in 1958, climber Marco Maria Scolaris turned his passion for the mountains into his profession, becoming a journalist and photographer. Involved in Sport Climbing since the first organised Lead competition, SportRoccia, in 1985, Scolaris was also among the founding members of FASI (the Italian Sport Climbing Federation: Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana) in 1988, acting as its Sport Director for 10 years. On the International competition scene, he became a Judge as well as a trainer for new Judges and, having attended over 40 international events as an Official, Scolaris was one of the leaders in the development of climbing competitions within the UIAA. In 2007, with a vision to further shape the future of Sport Climbing and in agreement with the UIAA, Scolaris created a new International Federation to govern the sport: the IFSC. Elected IFSC President in 2009 and re-elected in 2013 and 2017, Marco Scolaris is working to lead Sport Climbing to a youthful and urban future. Securing Sport Climbing’s presence at the Youth Olympic Games Buenos Aires 2018, Olympic Games Tokyo 2020, and Olympic Games Paris 2024, Scolaris is now guiding the sport onwards and upwards.

DEBRA GAWRYCH (USA)

SECRETARY GENERAL

MANDATE 2021-2025

Debbie Gawrych has served as Secretary General for over 10 years after joining the IFSC Management Committee in 2004. Debbie began her Sport Climbing management positions as a volunteer coordinator for the Junior Climbing Competition Association (JCCA) in the USA, working her way up to the role of President of USA Climbing from 2003-2006. She served as the IFSC Vice President of Finance for two terms before her current second term as Secretary General. Debbie is an active athlete and in addition to climbing has competed in running, triathlons and tennis. Her experience in business (MBA and currently a Leadership Management Consultant) as well as competitive sports has helped her work with the IFSC staff and Executive Board to elevate the organisation and professionalism of the IFSC as a whole. Beginning in 2019, Debbie has begun to work more closely with the Strategic aspects of the IFSC; creating a global Strategic Plan from 2019-2025, and improving strategic and operational functions of key areas working alongside the staff in Marketing & Communications, Membership, Governance, and Administration.

KOBINATA TORU (JPN)

VICE PRESIDENT

MANDATE 2021-2025

Born in Yokohama, Japan, in 1967, Kobinata started climbing in his teenage years, travelling the world in search of new crags and challenges. Having competed at a domestic level, Kobinata began his climbing career as a Routesetter in the 1990’s, acting also as a Judge and manager of the Japanese National Youth Team. Involved with the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) since the nineties, Kobinata was elected Vice President of the IFSC Asian Council 2013-2017, was a proud member of the IFSC 2020 bidding team, and is now IFSC Vice President. Kobinata is also Vice President of the Japan Urban Sports Support Committee (JUSC). Aside from climbing, Kobinata graduated with a degree in Economics from Yokohama City University and owns his own business.

WOLFGANG WABEL (GER)

VICE PRESIDENT

MANDATE 2021-2025

Based in Munich, Germany, Wolfgang is currently Managing Director of Climbing and Mountain Sports at the Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) (German Alpine Club). With a sporting background, Wolfgang has a Master’s in Sport Management and a PhD in Sport Science. After attending the UIAA PA in 1998 on behalf of the DAV, Wolfgang acted as a delegate and then member of the Management Committee of organisations engaged in international Sport Climbing. As President and one of the founding members of the IFSC European Council, Wolfgang’s role encompasses the strategy and structural development of Sport Climbing in Europe. Wolfgang feels that the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 is the crowning achievement of efforts made by the IFSC and its Member Federations.

PIERRE YOU (FRA)

TREASURER

MANDATE 2021-2025

Born in France, Pierre has been climbing for more than 40 years and is retired (engineer transport-operations of French railways). He has been successively vice-president (1999-2001), treasurer (2001-2005), and president (2005-2021) of the French Mountain and Climbing Federation (FFME). He was responsible for organising major championships in Paris, the 2008 European Championships and then the World Championships in 2012 and 2016. He was elected for eight years (2009-2017) to the board of directors at the French National Olympic Committee. He wishes to put his experience at the service of the IFSC so that it develops for the benefit of Sport Climbing.

GEORGE STAINTON (RSA)

IFSC AFRICA REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

George Stainton was born in Zambia before moving to South Africa at a young age. He is an experienced Sports Administrator who sits on the South African National Climbing Federation (SANCF) Executive Board, is the President of the African Continental Council and is an elected member of the SASCOC Brand Marketing, Commercialisation & Communication Commission. He has a passion for many sports, specifically Sport Climbing, rugby, football, mountain biking, and canoeing. Growing up on a farm in Kwa-Zulu Natal, he spent many days hiking in the Drakensberg, competitively paddling on the Tugela, Umkomaas, and Umgeni Rivers, and climbing in the Howick Falls Gorge. On the professional side he was in property and retail management for over a third of his career before becoming a stadium and rights management specialist in 2000. As CEO of Ellis Park Stadium, he formed part of the successful SAFA Bid Committee presenting to FIFA for the hosting of the 2010 FIFA World Cup and was a SAFA delegate at the 2006 FIFA World Cup Tournament in Germany. He was directly involved in the commercial design and development and management of two 2010 stadiums and has consulted across Southern Africa. He has his own stadium and rights management consulting business and is a partner in two C4 Climbing Training Venues in South Africa.

LI ZHIXIN (CHN)

IFSC ASIA REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

Li Zhixin [Chinese 李致新; Pinyin Lǐ Zhìxīn] was born in Dalian, located in the Chinese Province of Liaoning, in 1962. A leading Chinese mountaineer, Li Zhixin and partner Wang Yongfeng became the first Chinese couple to climb the Seven Summits on 23rd June 1999. Li Zhixin graduated from the Wuhan Institute of Geology in 1985, where he begun his mountaineering career within the Institute’s Mountaineering Team the previous year. Director of the Mountaineering Sports Administrative Centre of the State General Administration of Sports, Li Zhixin is also President of the Chinese Mountaineering Association.

TIJL SMITZ (BEL)

IFSC EUROPE REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

Based on the outskirts of Leuven, Belgium, Tijl Smitz was elected President of the IFSC European Council in 2021. Whilst studying Physical Education & Sports Management at KU Leuven he became one of the founding members of a fast-growing local climbing club, involved at a national level with performing athletes and successful events. Since 2007 he has coached for the Belgian national team, working mostly with youth athletes, and became a national routesetter for Lead and Boulder in 2012. Employed as Technical Director for the Club Alpin Belge since 2015, he has been active in the IFSC as a representative for Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL), European Coaches Representative in the IFSC Europe Sport Department, and participated in various IFSC working groups. Tijl’s focus within the IFSC Executive Board is on good governance, development, and sport matters.

NAOMY CLEARY (AUS)

IFSC OCEANIA REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

Naomi Cleary is the President of the IFSC Oceanian Council. Based in Victoria, Australia, Naomi became involved in climbing as a founding member of the state based climbing association where her children began competing.  After joining the board of Sport Climbing Australia in 2015, Naomi has been involved with all aspects of climbing in Australia including implementing a new federated organisational structure, organising National and Continental events, coordinating roles with Sport Integrity Australia, the Australian Olympic Committee, and Sport Australia. Naomi brings to the executive board experience as the owner and finance director of a property development business and board roles in the Property, Government, Not-for Profit, and Peak Industry Body fields as well as qualifications in business, accounting, and company directorship.

SHAUNA COXSEY (GBR)

ATHLETES' REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

Climbing since the age of four, Olympian Shauna Coxsey MBE has cemented a global reputation as one of the world's best competition climbers; with a notable track record in outdoor bouldering also. A passionate proponent of widening participation in sport, when she was 18 years old, Shauna established the Women's Climbing Symposium (WCS). Now an annual event, the WCS aims to connect, develop, and inspire women to climb, whatever their level. Shauna is widely recognised as a key spokesperson for the sport and has extensive experience of working with the media and in other public speaking environments to provide insight, explanation and commentary on climbing, women in sport and access to sport. Shauna is also a trustee of Climbers Against Cancer, a charity to unite the climbing community in supporting Cancer Research which was set up by the late John Ellison.

SEAN MCCOLL (CAN)

ATHLETES' REPRESENTATIVE

MANDATE 2021-2025

Born in 1987, Sean McColl is a climber from Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, who has been competing in the sport since the age of ten. Dominating the sport in Canada as a junior athlete, Sean claimed five world youth titles, an unprecedented feat. In the senior ranks, Sean has won five World Cup gold medals, over 10 International masters and has an astonishing count of 34 World Cup medals in total. Sean has competed on the show "American Ninja Warrior: USA vs. The World" and hopes to return once again. On the educational side, Sean has a Computer Science degree with Honours from the British Columbia Institute of Technology. Sean currently serves on the IFSC Athletes' Commision as the Vice-President, after being President from 2012-2021. Through countless presentations to the International Olympic Committee, Sean led the charge – as athlete representative – for climbing’s inclusion at the Olympic Games.

EXECUTIVE DECISIONS

2023

12 October 2023

  • Update to the IFSC Continuously Updated World Ranking for 2024-2025 
    The taskforce convened to work on potential amendments for the IFSC Continuously Updated World Ranking (CUWR) formulated recommendations to the Executive Board towards the update of the CUWR regulation starting from the 2024 season.
    Vote to approve the updated CUWR regulation for the 2024 and 2025 seasons. Approved.
  • Medical and Anti-Doping Commission – Appointment of new members 
    The applications and CVs of the candidates for the IFSC Medical and Anti-Doping Commission recommended by the IFSC Office were shared with the Executive Board for decision. The recommended candidates are: Naama Constantini (ISR), Karen Halsell (USA), Maria Stefania Ionel (ROU), Gabriel Lima (BRA), Koji Tanabe (JPN). The Executive Board shall appoint the new members of the Commission but leave the choice of Chair to an internal discussion between the new members and the current members.
    Vote to approve the appointment of the new members of the Medical and Anti-Doping Commission. Approved.

13 September 2023

  • Reintroduction of neutral athletes with Russian and Belarusian passports 
    Following the Executive Board’s approval to start a process for the reinstatement of Athletes with Russian and Belarusian passport as neutral athletes, starting from 2024, the ad-hoc task force presents the ‘IFSC Policy Concerning Participation of Russian and Belarusian Athletes to IFSC Competitions’ and the ‘Neutral Athletes’ Declaration and Undertaking’. 
    Vote to approve the IFSC Policy Concerning Participation of Russian and Belarusian Athletes to IFSC Competitions and the Neutral Athletes’ Declaration and Undertaking. Approved.
  • Paraclimbing: Application for Paraclimbing Committee Expert Position 
    Vote to approve the application of Sebastian Depke (GER) as Expert Member of the Paraclimbing Committee. Approved.
  • New Memberships: Guam and Nigeria
    Vote to approve the provisional admission of the Guam Federation of Sport Climbing as new member representing Guam pending the ratification by the General Assembly. Approved.
    Vote to approve the provisional admission of Sport Climbing Nigeria as new member representing Nigeria pending the ratification by the General Assembly. Approved.

8 August 2023

  • Finance: approval of the Q2 2023 budget review 
    Vote to approve the proposed Q2 2023 budget review. Approved.
  • Governance: IFSC Statutes revision
    Vote to approve the motion to Article 2.1 of the IFSC Statutes draft reading “World Climbing is the designation used operationally by IFSC”. Approved. 
    Vote to amend Article 10.4.1 of the IFSC Statutes draft to lower the threshold required for National Federations to call an Extraordinary General Assembly from two-thirds to 50% +1 of National Federations (simple majority). Approved. 
    Vote to amend Article 10.7.1 of the IFSC Statutes draft to allow one proxy vote per National Federation. Approved. 
    Vote to amend Article 10.9.1 of the IFSC Statutes draft to add a quorum of one-third of Members present, failing which the General Assembly may not validly deliberate. Approved. 
    Vote to amend Article 10.10.1.5 of the IFSC Statutes draft so that each candidate for one position, if not elected, does not go into the next pool (cannot run for other position). Approved. 
    Vote to accept the recommendation from the IFSC lawyer (i) to remove Article 14.5 providing for an Appeals Commission from the IFSC Statutes draft and amend the Statutes draft and other IFSC rules and regulations so that appeals may be filed directly before the Court of Arbitration for Sport and (ii) that anti-doping disputes shall be immediately submitted to the CAS Anti-Doping Division for decision of first instance, with appeals possible before CAS. Approved.

5 July 2023

  • Membership Bolivia: termination of current Member and admission of new Member
    The Executive Board votes to approve the membership termination submitted by the Federación Boliviana de Ski y Andinismo (FEBSA), pending the ratification of the 2024 General Assembly.
  • The Executive Board votes to approve the request submitted by the Comité Boliviano de Escalada Deportiva (CBED) to be admitted as IFSC Member representing Bolivia pending the ratification of the 2024 General Assembly. The applicable annual membership fee will start from July 2023.
  • Membership termination: Fiji
    The Executive Board votes to approve the membership termination submitted by Sport Climbing Fiji (SCF) pending the ratification of the 2024 General Assembly.

7 June 2023

  • Reintroduction of neutral athletes with Russian and Belarusian passports
    The ad-hoc task force presents a report containing its recommendations, drafted following consultations with IFSC and IOC Athletes’ Commissions, IOC Sport Department, International Testing Agency (doping testing providers), Swiss Alpine Club (World Championships organiser), European Council, Ukrainian Sport Climbing Federation, Israeli Federation (regarding security measures).
    The Executive Board votes to approve to start a process for the reinstatement of Athletes with Russian and Belarusian passport as neutral athletes, starting from 2024.
  • Membership status change: Cambodia
    The Executive Board votes to approve the request of membership status change from Continental to Full submitted by the Cambodia Climbing Federation (CCF).

10 May 2023

  • Creation of task force to examine reintroduction of neutral athletes with Russian and Belarusian passports
    A task force comprised of Executive Board Member Naomi Cleary, Athletes’ Commission President Shauna Coxsey, and the IFSC Development Director is created to consult the Athletes’ Commission, Event Organisers, IOC, other IFs, and NFs and to collect information about how it could work if the EB were to make the decision to reinclude athletes with Russian and Belarusian passports as neutral athletes.
  • Southern Pan America representation
    As the Pan American Federations were divided in their administration between North and South but only the representative of the Norther Federations attends Executive Board meetings, to remedy the lack of representation of the Southern Federations the IFSC President invites Willy Montenegro (President of the Chilean Federation FEACH) to future Executive Board meetings.
  • Statutes revision: discussion and decision on items which received only soft majorities at the 2023 General Assembly
    The Executive Board addresses the proposals that only obtained soft majorities during voting at the General Assembly to instruct on their inclusion, non-inclusion, or change of form in the new Statutes.
  • Waiving of HON & ESA fees
    The Executive Board votes to approve the waiving of the 2022 fees for the Federación Hondureña de Deportes de Montana y Escalada (FEHDME) and the Federación Salvadoreña de Montañismo y Escalada (FSME).
  • Financial support for UKR
    The Executive Board votes to approve the payment of the General Assembly 2023 travel contribution to the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UMCF), as the flight ticket could not be refunded due to the short notice visa refusal from Singapore authorities.

2 April 2023

  • Debrief of the General Assembly
    Debrief of the General Assembly and schedule of the next Executive Boards

29 March 2023

Preparation of the General Assembly, running order and coordination

8 March 2023

  • Discussion on the Governance Commission proposals
    This Executive Board meeting had only one point in agenda. The discussion was focused on the different points presented by the Governance Commission

22 February 2023

  • General Assembly agenda
    Approval of the final agenda
  • Approval of IFSC Code of Conduct 2023
    It sets out several behavioural rules that all participants in IFSC activities are bound by, with retroactive effects. Reports of unethical conduct will be handled by the IFSC Ethics Officer, the IFSC Ethics Commission is reinstated as a research and advisory body.
  • Approval of IFSC Safeguarding Policy 2023
    It covers all types of harassment and abuse against and committed by all individuals involved with IFSC, both athletes and non-athletes, and determines the responsibilities of all major actors. The positions of the external and independent IFSC Safeguarding Officer and of IFSC Event Safeguarding Supervisor, assigned to be present onsite at individual competitions.
  • Approval of IFSC Disciplinary and Appeals Rules 2023
    IFSC Disciplinary and Appeals Rules 2023 implement language revisions and the inclusion of disciplinary proceedings for breaches of the IFSC Code of Conduct 2023 and of the IFSC Safeguarding Policy 2023.
  • Vote to approve the IFSC Subsidiary Plan
    IFSC entrusted consultancy firm EY to build a solid plan on a commercial subsidiary for IFSC. The setting up of a subsidiary is another step forward to adhere to the Strategic Plan and it becomes necessary, due to IFSC’s growing revenues. Goals: follow the increasing trend of most IFs (and many of our NFs) creating more centralised and professionalised media and marketing services centres; as a legal entity, could allow for development of IFSC into a more agile, efficient, and sustainable organization; positive consequences would be fiscal benefits and potentially new sources of revenue for IFSC to reinvest in Sport Climbing.
  • Appointments of IFSC Ethic Commission members
    The General Assembly will vote for the appointment of Italian sports lawyer Mario Morelli as second member of the new Ethics Commission after Patti Rube from the USA. Third member will be IOC member from Ethiopia, Dagmawit Berhane.
  • Waiving of UKR fees
    Vote to approve the waiving of the 2023 fees for the Ukrainian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UMCF)
  • Azerbaijan, Kosovo, Kuwait, Lebanon, New Caledonia, Portugal
    Vote to approve the request of membership termination submitted by Air and Extreme Sports Federation of Azerbaijan (AESFA) and admission of the Azerbaijan Mountaineering Federation (AMF).
  • Vote to approve the admission of the Kosovo Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (KMSCF) and of the Kuwait Climbing Committee, of the Lebanese Federation of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering (LFSCM). Vote to ratify the request of membership termination (Observer Membership) submitted by the Comité Régional de la Montagne et de l’Escalade de la Nouvelle Calédonie.
  • Vote to approve the name change for IFSC Member representing Portugal from Federação Promotora de Montanhismo e Escalada to Federação Promotora de Escalada de Competição.
  • Governance Commission
    Vote to approve the inclusion of the Governance Commission headline proposals with the Agenda documents for the General Assembly. Ad hoc meeting set for 8 March.
  • Finance, 2022 Audit and Financial Statement
    Vote to approve the 2022 Audit and Financial Statements. They are presented as consolidated, including both revenues and costs of IFSC and of Continental Councils. Both total turnover and costs increased from 2021, resulting in a slight net profit.
  • 2023 provisional budget
    Vote to approve 2023 provisional budget. It’s presented, and an increase in both annual turnover and costs is expected.
  • 2024 fee system
    Vote to approve the new fee system The first major update is the increase of calendar fees for IFSC World Cups, related to the higher level of services provided at these events, which includes anti-doping in-competition testing to be coordinated by IFSC. The second major update is the increase of registration and licence fees for competitors; this is the first amendment to these fees since 2014.
  • Sport, Athletes’ health
    Vote to approve the updated procedure for athletes’ health screening. The goal is to protect the athletes in the upcoming season. The process is described in the accompanying documents. The screening of athletes will occur at every competition as usual. If an athlete falls within a “critical” BMI/MI zone, then he/she may be excluded from the competition, unless his/her National Federation has presented the medical certification required by the IFSC Medical Commission in advance. This is the same procedure as in 2022, but athletes with a critical BMI/MI have to produce the required documentation before the screening and not after upon receipt of the IFSC notification.
  • 2025 World Championship Host City
    It is proposed not to present bids to host the 2027 Climbing World Championships at the 2023 GA in Singapore, but only to present and vote on the host for the 2025 Climbing World Championships. Two bids were received for 2025, from South Korea and China.
  • Age limits
    Vote to approve the proposal to adopt only the Junior and Youth A age groups for the Youth World Championship starting from 2025.
    Vote to approve the increase of the minimum entry age (year of birth) for World Cups and World Championships to 17 years old starting from 2025.

18 January 2023

  • General Assembly provisional agenda
    Approval voted.
  • Paris OQS
    Approval voted.
  • Athletes’ health
    Vote to approve to continue the process for the establishment of protective measures for athletes competing in IFSC events, which may result in the suspension of athletes’ licence. The implementation of the measures will be ready by 2024; the timeline and process until 2024 will be established in consultation with the IFSC Medical Commission, the IOC, and legal experts.
  • Finance regulations
    For 2023, some amendments are proposed to simplify and standardise processes, improve efficiency, enhance transparency, and adjust to the increased cost of living. The proposed amendments are a reference to EB compensation rules, Continental Councils budget procedures, and updated wording for Annexes.
  • Travel & Compensation policy
    Vote to approve the 2023 Executive Board Travel & Compensation Policy. The proposed amendments are minor improvements, an updated base for reimbursements for the use of a personal car. No changes have been made to the Compensation Policy.
    Vote to approve the 2023 Staff Travel Policy. The proposed amendments are minor improvements, an updated base for reimbursements for the use of a personal car, and updated daily allowance for meals and incidentals.
    Vote to approve the 2023 Contractors Travel Policy. The proposed amendments are: standards shall apply to all contractors (not only officials as was the case in the former Officials Compensation Policy), adjustment of standard ceiling for travel expenses, introduction of daily allowance for meals and incidentals, updated base for reimbursements for the use of a personal car.
    Vote to approve the 2023 Officials Honoraria. This new document contents were previously included in the former Officials Compensation Policy. The Officials Honoraria describes the mandate agreement process, sets the principle of the daily rate, and includes trainers and speed wall inspectors.
  • New HQ Bank Loan
    New HQ Bank Loan Authorization, as per request of the Bank. In the fourth quarter of 2022 the IFSC submitted to Banca Patrimoni Sella & C. all the documents necessary to obtain the bank loan, following Finance Commission recommendations and Executive Board approval. Banca Patrimoni Sella & C. requires an official vote from the Executive Board with reference to the bank loan conditions, in order to proceed. The final answer on behalf of Banca Patrimoni Sella & C. is expected within the end of January 2023.
2021

DOCUMENTS

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